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Kalamata

Capital and chief port of the prefecture is the much-sung Kalamata, the land of the Kalamatianos dance and the silk kerchief. Of succulent black olives, honeyed figs and the sesame-covered sweet called pastelli.

Kalamata has an archaeological and folklore museum, a fine arts museum and a library containing 60.000 volumes.

Around about the castle is a plain planted with olive trees and grapevines. The sea opens into an infinite expanse of blue. They say that the view of the sunset from the castle is one of the most splendid in the world.

Everything here is imbued with history and a fascinating light. Everywhere one looks, one sees ancient, Byzantine and Frankish monuments. Peristera is a place a little beyond the village of Raches (5 km. from Kiparissia), where three beehive tombs have been excavated.

Filiatra is not far off. The whole district is dotted with churches, Byzantine and Frankish, of a venerable age. Gargaliani sits on a lush hillside. It's worth going up to the town to see the view below. A magical carpet of olive trees and vines that stretches to the sea with Marathoupoli and the islet of Proti, the site of a ruined Mycenaean acropolis, is visible in the background.

Hora is built on a hilltop. This village has preserved its old-fashioned appearance -- stone houses with tiled roofs and narrow lanes. The finds from Nestor's palace and Peristera are on display in the local museum. South of Hora, 4 km. from Englianos, lays the ruined palace of wise Nestor, who took part in the Trojan War and whose city was the second largest in the Mycenaean world.

In the palace archaeologists discovered thousands of clay pots, a bathroom with terracotta bathtub and 1.250 clay tablets with inscriptions in Linear B, which have since been deciphered.

Pilos is a pretty little town built up a hill on the south coast of the bay of Navarino. Snow-white two-store houses with courtyards drenched in flowers. The arcaded streets make you think you've been transported to an island. The main square ringed with pastry shops is sheltered by humongous, centuries-old plane trees.

The TurkoVenetian fortress, known as Neokastro, dominates the west side of town. One of the most attractive in the Peloponnese, it is so in order to distinguish it from the ancient fortress to the southwest, named Paliokastro or Palionavarino.

The bay of Voidokilia extends from the base of the old castle. A tranquil, carefree sanctuary, the floor of the bay is covered with a thick layer of sand. In the southernmost tip of the west coast of the Peloponnese lies Methoni. In the town are some enormous Venetian wells whose marble rims are furrowed by the pressure of huge ropes over the centuries.

Homer called Methoni "rich in vines" and tradition maintains that the town is so called because the donkeys (onoi) carrying its wine used to get drunk (methoun), from the heavy aroma. You enter the castle by crossing a massive bridge, impressed by the gigantic walls, imposing bastions and monumental gates.

To the south, another bridge unites the citadel with the Bourtzi, a fortified islet with casemates and towers. However, there's much more to see in Messinia.

Finikounda is a picturesque fishing village at the back of a bay. Caiques and fishing boats are drawn up all along its sandy shore, while its taverns serve their fresh catch to little tables at the water's edge.

The road winds like a vast serpent slowly amidst lush fields to arrive at Koroni. Its medieval atmosphere is imprinted in its old mansions, churches and the castle.

Petalidi juts out from the head of a little bay. The sandy or pebbly beaches round about are shallow and sheltered from the wind, and surrounded by banana trees.

For many years, the Archaeological Service has been carrying out restoration work at various buildings of the castle. Every summer cultural events like concerts and plays put on by the Kalamata theatre, are held in the amphitheatre of the castle.

In the evening, the town comes alive, especially along the waterfront which is lined with taverns, seafood restaurants and rotisseries serving local dishes and drinks, fresh fish, roast suckling pig and chicken, sausages, cheese, olives, retsina and raki.

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